WINDOWS AND SCREENS
THE CHALLENGE
When he's not putting holes in our walls, our son likes to kick, hit, and throw things at windows and especially TV screens. So we've learned some lessons about what works and doesn't work when preparing windows for our son's outbursts.
WHAT DOESN'T WORK
Our solutions primarily focus on plexiglass, but we've learned a few things that haven't stopped windows from being broken:
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My advice is don't just replace the broken glass with plexiglass. We did that for a long time and the draft coming from the window was too much. In retrospect, I should have gotten the glass replaced and then added plexiglass on the outside to protect the glass.
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1/20" or even 1/8" plexiglass isn't thick enough; we use at least 1/4" acrylic for everything.
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Finally, just adhering plexiglass to the frame isn't usually enough. Our son can still break the glass through the plexiglass even though the plexiglass itself isn't damaged.
THE PLEXI-BOX
We use a "plexi-box" for windows we've given up on opening the window and for TV screens that are mounted to a wall. I've tried a few different versions of this and the plan below has lasted the longest and definitely feels the most secure.
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First, cut a 1/2" deep groove in a 2"x4" (for windows) or 2x6 (or wider for wall-mounted TVs) wide enough to sit the plexiglass in. You can use a router for this or (what I do), run the 2"x4" through a table saw a few times, adjusting the blade to a 1/2" height and moving the distance about 1/8" with each pass. I cut the groove between 1/2" and 3/4" from the edge of the 2"x4". [BTW, I bought a table saw for a different big project after borrowing a neighbor's for a few weeks. It was a great investment for all the patches, emergency repairs, and panels I've had to cut over the years. Most are fine, but I'm a sucker for Dewalt.]
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Once you have the groove in your 2"x4", cut the 2x4" to fit around the window/screen. Make sure to take into account the width of the frame (1-1/2") and give yourself about an inch on each side of the window/screen. There are a few ways you can connect the frame together, but I have found that pocket holes with a little wood glue are the strongest. I use a Kreg jig to drill the holes and have been very happy with it.
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You can use a tablesaw to cut the plexiglass to fit inside the groove. Obviously take the groove depth into consideration when measuring. Place painter's tape over both sides of the plexiglass along the cut line and slowly feed the plexiglass into your table saw. I strongly recommend both eye and ear protection when cutting plexiglass - it is loud and there will be some small amounts of chipping.
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Connect three sides of the box, then slide the plexiglass into the groove and connect the fourth side.
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There are a few ways to mount the box around the window/screen, but pocket holes are the best solution. I use a lot (every 5-6" on all four sides), and I try to line a few up with a wall stud, but despite my son's penchant for damage, adherence to the wall has never been a problem.
Make sure to drill your pocket holes BEFORE you start assembling the box (it's hard to use the jig once it's all assembled.
ANOTHER OPTION
For a window you might want to open or won't likely see significant attempts to damage, you can adhere plexiglass directly to the window frame. The best way to do this is to drill holes in the plexiglass and use short machine screws into the frame. Be careful not to screw too deep into the window frame or you risk damaging the glass.
WHAT I'VE LEARNED
The first time I built a plexibox, it was for a TV, and I used 1"x6" boards. Those proved... insufficient - he kicked the corner of the box, breaking it, and then smashed the TV. This is why I moved to using 2"x4"s and 2"x6"s. They aren't quite as pretty, but they hold up a lot better.
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I have also mounted his TV as high as I can to keep him from being able to kick the TV box. He still goes after it, but his punches and body slams aren't nearly as powerful as his kicking!